Key West Review - Better Than You've Heard

Key West Review - Better than you've heard
I've recently returned from one of the best vacations my husband and I have ever had from perhaps one of the least expected places - Key West, America's Caribbean Island (their turn of a phrase, not mine).

We had a great time filed with fine dining, plenty of sun shine, great shopping, and lots of sites to see. We browsed through art galleries, museums, and a sea side sculpture exhibit. During the day, the streets were relatively empty, the shops and restaurants too, and most nights, the bar scene was kept at a low din so that it made for interesting people watching, but didn't interrupt us from walking the streets.

I know, I know, you've been told lots of stories about what Key West is supposed to be. I know you've heard them, because as soon as I started telling people I was going there, they told me why I shouldn't go. "It's a haven for drug runners," my brother said, "because they can easily slip off to sea." "It's Spring Break," warned a friend. (It wasn't - it begins the second Sunday in March, we were later told and goes on for about six weeks, so just plan to go before then.) Despite all the nay sayers, we had a wonderful time and haven't stopped talking about it since. Could there be a Key West island retreat house in our future? Stay tuned to find out.

Most the people I spoke to hadn't been to Key West in twenty or thirty years and had matured a lot since then. Still, they had the concept that the only people in Key West were bar hoppers and deep sea fishers who had nothing better to do than drink rum and eat Key Lime pie. We found it surprisingly different than what our naysayers said. What they had apparently missed in their journeys was the true Key West essence, which is about taking life easy and enjoying each day as it comes. Since we walked not only through the tourist attractions (of which there are many), but also explored many an out-of-the-way streets and shops, we were able to speak to many of the residents, most who had come for a vacation and for one reason or another, decided to stay. Up against the high cost of housing, the annual threat of hurricanes, and a host of other unique to the island troubles, these Key Westers once there have no desire to leave.



The key to avoiding crowds is to go down to the cruise docks before the ships come in, or long after they have disembarked. During the busy times of the day, we headed the opposite direction where we found shop prices less expensive and the beaches less crowded.



What I liked most about Key West is how everything in town is in walking distance. We found we had walked seven miles one day without even realizing it as we meandered through shops, stopped for appetizers in open cafes, and walked along beaches. There is a lot about the island that we found unique to other stateside American locations. Where else can one find chickens wandering harmlessly through the chairs of an outdoor cafe, or enjoy fine dining while be served by waiters in shorts, T-shirts, and sandals? The residents' laid back "This is how it is in Key West" attitude lent to us slowing our own pace and to truly allowing our lives to slow down, even if for only a few days. I can tell you those few moments of relaxation were extremely worth it.

Here's a list of our favorite stops and places you should not miss yourselves if you too visit to Key West:

Restaurants:
Two Friends - great for a delicious early morning breakfast and friendly staff. It is apparently for sale if you have close to ten million dollars and don't know how to spend it. To us, this was THE morning gathering place, and for many others as well.

Blue Heaven - it's a longer walk for breakfast, and you'll likely have to wait at the bar for 20 minutes to get a seat (is having an early morning cocktail all that bad when you are in paradise?), but you'll have the best breakfast you've had in a long time, roosters underfoot and all.



Nicola's at the Hyatt - if you enjoy fine dining, book early and watch the sun set from their back porch veranda. The meal was one of the best I've ever had, well worth the expensive price tag. The sun set was included free of charge and on our trip, we also watched a wedding where the bride in full gown and tuxedoed men wore flip-flops on the beach.



Antonia's Key West - Fine Italian dining. We sat in the bar area by a window eating expertly prepared meals while watching the Saturday night bar crowd gather. A great hideaway.


Red Fish Blue Fish - Don't let the casual atmosphere mislead you. The food at Red Fish Blue Fish is as good as any on the island. They offer a wide selection at reasonable prices. The dining is all outdoors, so a great place to enjoy an early evening dinner on a warm Key West evening, or to grab a late lunch. We had mahi-mahi that was excellent.

Conch Republic Seafood Co - We couldn't resist stopping in for a quick appetizer --a bit of conch crab cakes and a cold drink. We sat by the water and watched the boats come in. Made all those old "mystery at the harbor" movies with Humphrey Bogart and others 40s and 50s movie stars come to life. No wonder Hemingway wrote here.

El Siboney - Even if you have to take a cab, grab lunch at El Siboney before you leave the island. This casual dining, authentic Cuban cuisine. (No, it's not spicy!) Just delicious home cooked food. Order the pulled pork plate that comes with plantains, beans and other sides. Unless you add a pitcher of their Sangria, the cab fare will cost more than the meal.



A trip to Key West would not be complete without side trips to the following:

Hemingway's House - If you're a writer or have read the books, you have to go, it's a must. You have to soak up the Key West essence and peek into the little room out back where Ernest sat.



If you don't have literature running through your veins, you might want to skip this experience as you will just see yet another Key West house and a bunch of cats. Hemingway's is the haven for polydactyl cats. My vet-tech son pointed out that in order to perpetuate this line, they often interbreed like old hillbillies, but if you love cats, you won't mind. If you can't go there live, check out their kitty cam available here:
http://www.hemingwayhome.com/HTML/our_cats.htm

Harry S. Truman's Little White House - We explored the gated community where the Little White House is located and wandered through the gift shop. We considered taking the tour, which we were assured was top notch, but by that time had become momentary Key Westers and enjoyed instead sitting on a park bench discussing current events with the locals.

Mel Fisher's Maritime Treasure Museum - You do want to see the gold and other artifacts that were brought up from the bottom of the sea - don't you? You can even lift a bar of gold. Come on, you do have a little bit of seaman or pirate in your blood, I'm sure. Why else would we flock to see Johnny Depp in three versions of Pirates of the Caribbean?

Key West Shipwreck Historeum Museum - ditto - just different stuff, and other adventures. (It's okay if you skip the movie... we did.)

Ft. Zachary Taylor Beach - if ever a gem was being under utilized, it's this public beach. Nary a sunbather could be seen as we walked the trails and viewed an art exhibit that was set up at the time. It was quite a walk in, so if you're carrying extra beach goodies, you may want transportation, but you'll be rewarded with a quiet afternoon on a beautiful beach. Make sure to also visit the fort there.

Remember that vacations heal the soul and give you time to recharge your creative mind - the part that guides you to the fulfillment of your dreams. Whether Key West or a near-by lake, take time to get away from it all.